My La Chouffe tradition

Until I caught a whiff from its bright nose, I didn't realize I was fulfilling an unnoticed holiday tradition. For the fourth Christmas in a row, I'd put down a giant bottle of La Chouffe.

The first year was a gift pack with a La Chouffe glass and a bottle each of its Golden and Brown ales. The next two years it was La Chouffe's Christmas ale, a stronger ale replete with Christmas spices. In stumbled onto the Christmas ale due to the eye-catching gnomes on its bottle. According to the story put forth by its brewers, the gnomes emerge at night to brew the beer. They're not on par with the Trappist monks, but those legendary little creatures do well for themselves and their drinkers.

Now in 2006, it came back to the Golden, which easily qualifies as my favorite.

Made in the French-speaking portion of Belgium, it comes off as a more complex, sparkling version of a Saison-Farmhouse style ale. It has a bubbly, champagne-like effervescence and a light, citrus and red fruit taste that is somewhat unique give its style. No American microbrewer comes close to matching this recipe (though Unibroue could come damn close).

At 8 percent, a single 25 oz. bottle is enough for one night.

But what a night that always is.