How American bars get it wrong

October 28, 2007

For all the advances craft brews have made into American bars, most still miss the boat - and the pier, in some cases - on pouring an honest beer.

You can argue about the use of glassware --- while most foreign brews pair with a customized glass to maximize scent and flavors, a basic wine glass substitutes well in a pinch.

Besides, too many American drinkers feel obliged to leave with a souvenir of their snob-beer experience. The guys at Bob's only gave me a Chimay chalice because they knew I wouldn't steal it. I imagine any bar foolish enough to pour a Pauwel Kwak in its unique yet proper glass would have them disappear in a week.

But the biggest faux pas committed by virtually all taverns is temperature control.

Americans demand ice cold brew, a great notion when serving tasteless, watered-down fare from the major brewers. Cold is the only real selling point here, because those watery pints account for the lion's share of sales, generally all beers wind up chilled at expense of their complexity.

Most European imports pour and taste best when slightly chilled or at room temperature. As more imports brew in those styles, the frosty coolers in the American bar do a major disservice to the drinker.

Even bars that cater to beer snobs - the Winking Lizard, the Flying Saucer and others -- serve up ice cold brews, rolling over the flavors intended.

Once a beer dips below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, it numbs the tongue and obscures whatever intricacies lie beneath. Say goodbye to the hint of grapefruit lying deep in an India Pale Ale or the coriander or lemon zest spicing a Belgian white ale.

One bar which features many micro and import handles negates the taste by pouring the beer into a frosted mug. Even an IPA cannot overcome the ice coating the glass. The hoppiness remains, but the coldness smooths the facets into an American blandness.

I don't expect bars to invest in equipment chilling every bottle at its recommended temperature.

But chilling down an ale or lager most complex when warm bows to American expectations instead of standing up for authenticity.