Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Hoggin' it with Avery

For a style not far removed from paint thinner and industrial solvents in strength, a well-balanced can hit the same impressive notes as other high-alcohol beers.\

Never subtle, Avery Brewing Company's Hog Heaven (billed as a barleywine-style ale) attacks with a sharply sweet nose that the intense alcohol bouquet tempers. It's also rather flowery, and not dissimilar from an Imperial IPA in tone, although Hog Heaven's hops smooth out the everpresent malted barley. It's a beauty in a tulip glass, ruby-colored with enough burgundy highlights to be mistaken for true wine.

The malt produces flavors across a broad spectrum - a plug of tobacco, molasses, raisins and a citrus undercurrent not really attributable to the hops (I'm guessing - it isn't a typical high alcohol beer citrus flavor).

Unless you're a masochist, serve it slightly chilled; without a little fridge for this massive ale, it will steamroll any seasoned drinker, and make them wish for a glass of paint thinner instead. Not for everyone, Hog Heaven rewards those who stick with it.

Rating: 7/10

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