Sunday, May 18, 2008

Under a Hoppy Spell: Wychcraft

Wychwood Brewery, Oxfordshire, England
“The four elements combined to create truly Magical brew.”
500 mL capped bottle
4.5% ABV
Sampled: May 17, 2008

Full disclosure: If asked to pick, Wychwood would probably top Samuel Smith’s as my favorite English brewer
The flying witch impressed on the bottle was all I needed to see at the Jax Package Store in Cumming, Ga.

In other hands, the Halloweenish, haunted themes of their beers might seem gimmicky. But Wychwood’s ales would taste just as lovely with any other name.

From first sniff to last sip, Wychcraft constantly reveals new facets.

Mellow, complex nose flows forth with caramel and bubblegum backed up by an herbal, oily grassiness – don’t worry, that’s good. It’s a telltale sign that Wychwood didn’t skimp on the hops in its brew kettles. Every sip nearly overwhelms in its freshness.

With that freshly hopped character, Wychcraft recalls the Sierra Nevada Harvest Ale – albeit a decidedly English version, as the biscuit dryness attests.

On the finish, it strikes with sharply burnt citrus, then mingles with some mild red fruitiness before giving way to an effervescent bitterness I’ve not encountered before.

Modestly advertised as “Thrice Hopped and Golden,” it easily hits all those marks and surpasses nearly all other brews promoting staggering hop contents.

In an age of extreme brews, with every brewer attempting to out-hop each other, most of Wychwood’s beers fall into the session beer alcohol range.

With Wychcraft, they once again prove they can turn out a layered, hoppy ale that rivals the best produced in the U.K.
Rating: 9/10

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