Stockyard Oatmeal Stout

Chicago, IL

Sampled: May 24, 2009

Trader Joe’s beers are too easily dismissed, but their alcoholic beverages are no different than their other products.

The specialty grocer contracts with craft breweries for its ales – the holiday ale is a Unibroue product, and I’m convinced this stout’s Windy City origins connect it to Goose Island, its outstanding craft brewery.

This ale hits all the stylistic marks. Oatmeal stout can easily miss the target – too many craft brewers want to push it to imperial extremes when this stout can express more complexity and taste at the strength of a session beer.

The roasted malt comes on strong with a chocolate bouquet. Molasses, oats, raisins and other flavors lurk beneath the opaque surface. The oats give rise to vanilla bean as the stout cruises to the finish, which eschews all bitterness. It just requires a pinch of oats in the mash to generate that taste, but it works here. The vanilla is a refreshing change, but it works better because the vanilla does not become obtrusive.

At $5.99 a six-pack, this is the most economic oatmeal stout on the market. Since Goose Island does not market in Tennessee, I do wonder whether this is the same stout or not. Three years have passed since my last Goose Island Oatmeal Stout. Trader Joe’s just opened down here. While I cannot compare the two, I will find it simple to stick with Stockyard for an affordable, roasted oatmeal stout.

Rating: 8/10