Killer Far East Imports

Hitachino Nest Japanese Classic Ale

Kiuichi Brewery, Ibaraki, Japan
11.2 fl. oz. bottle
7 percent ABV
Sampled: August 8, 2009

Japan’s most innovative larger brewer attempts to evoke the times of Commodore Perry with this modified Indian Pale Ale. American tastes would not recognized it as such, with its reduced hop presence. Burnt orange in color and more closely resembling a Belgian tripel in character, Japanese Classic Ale has a nose to match, rich in meatier citrus fruits than florid hops. From the nose, I almost expected to find pulp when I tasted it.

Slightly effervescent, there are many subtle layers to the orange flavors within. This isn’t an overly malty Blue Moon, but a brew that reveals new spices (coriander, pepper, and lemon, among others) as each is peeled away.

Give Hitachino points for sticking with a style that might not excite everyone. But it’s a great high-alcohol orange ale without the trappings of most brew styles. There’s really no domestic equivalent. Plus, it easily proves that hops don’t make the beer in every case.

Japanese Classic Ale is a perfect tease to beer lovers – it shows shades of a Belgian saison, abbey tripel and hop-minimized IPAs. But what a wonderful tease it is.

Rating : 7/10

Hitachino Nest Commemorative Ale 2009
Kiuichi Brewery, Ibaraki, Japan
11.2 fl. oz. bottle
9 percent ABV
Sampled: Aug. 8, 2009

On a puffy head, this ale throws off signs of malts that emanate chocolate, muted molasses and even a hint of peat.

Deploying an expansive array of flavors – orange peel, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla beans – this self-anointed “festive ale” gives itself a lot to live up to. Luckily, this isn’t a Star Wars prequel we’re discussing, but an anniversary beer which understands the price of a lofty standard. A bubbly head quickly dissolves into minimal lace, while the tawny brown color possesses an opacity typical of much darker ales.

Vanilla beans typically match best with porters and stouts, but Hitachino Nest matches it well in this high-alcohol mix. As with desserts, too often is vanilla not trusted to deliver on its own, even though vanilla beans produce amazingly potent flavor.

The finish is surprisingly mild given all those elements at work; the pepperiness emerges, although there is no question of the alcohol content in this ale. While nominally the same style as an eisbock – a heavy beer partially frozen, heightening the alcohol content in the process – Commemorative Ale 2009 falls into a lower alcohol range than many (Aventinus Eisbock can hit 13 percent ABV).

For all its everyday innovations, Hitachino Nest has created something especially unique for 2009. When too many anniversary ales involved throwing as many hops as possible in the brew kettle, their different direction surprises and often amazes.

Rating 8/10