Monday, January 04, 2010

It's Amazing the Jacobites Lost With This Recipe

Traquair Jacobite Ale
8 percent ABV
11.2 oz. capped bottle
Sampled: Dec. 31, 2009

This year-round Scottish delight succeeds where so many Christmas ales and winter warmers fail.

By simply spicing a dark complex ale with generous dose of coriander, they take what could have been an average brew and carve out new depths. Based on an 18th century recipe, Traquair Jacobite is unusual even for Scotland, known for its unusual brews.

My mom caught sight of this one at the package store in Atlanta; it had been so long since I tasted it, I had little choice but to buy one.

Originally brewed in commemoration of an 18th century uprising, Traquair added this ale as a companion to its house ale (also of note: Traquair House is the oldest inhabited house in Scotland, a former hunting grounds for Scottish kings and queens). The coriander meshes well with the oak-barrel aging process.

What could have been a rough-hewn mess is a remarkably smooth, sometimes chocolately experience that finishes with mighty citrus uptick on the finish.

Some rich dark fruits lurk in the body. A bit of date and fig rise up as a contrasting prelude to the mighty citrus closing. If Traquair Jacobite sits on the tongue too long, the 8 percent alcohol content emerges as a sharp black pepperiness, but you have to seek it out; I think the oak-aging might smooth it out somewhat.

This ale lacks the heaviness of many winter warmers, making it suitable for drinking anytime. Too many fail to strike the balance of Jacobite, which lets the spices cut away the heaviness. Remind me not to wait five years before my next bottle of Traquair Jacobite. Few darks ales go to such length to defy easy classification.

Rating: 9/10

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