Stevens Point Shows Up Milwaukee Big Boys

Stevens Point Brewery's Whole Hog limited edition beers just hit Nashville. As the rare long-running Wisconsin brewery with no ties to the big breweries - founded in 1857, it's the fifth-oldest continuous brewing operation in America - it deserves a chance based on longevity alone.

Six-Hop IPA
How sick am I overdone, half-baked IPAs with no sense of balance? Let me count the ways. Whole Hog earns a pass and some praise for brewing so strong and so flavorful an IPA. A tight column of tiny bubbles flows constantly.

The logo scrawls out "5-hop" and it does not suffer for that addition. At first the nose seems muted, but brims with perfume, flower and herbal scents. Six-Hop IPA has an array of rounded fruit (think mildly acidic apples. Easy-drinking IPA at 8.5 percent alcohol is a rare proposition, but Whole Hog's Six-Hop ranks as the best strong IPA I have tasted in recent memory. With IPA entrenched as an American favorite and too many pale competitors who think endlessly hopping an ale makes it great should take notes from Stevens Point.

Whole Hog Russian Imperial Stout
Russian Imperial Stout (RIS) lands at Number Two on the list of repetitive craft brew styles (for Number One, see above). For every Old Rasputin or Stone RIS, there's a laundry list of unimaginative strong stouts that serve little purpose beyond getting hammered.

I personally prefer the sorely underrated Baltic porter, but Whole Hog's RIS has a malty nose rich in nuts, chocolate and the oiliness associated with these strong stouts. Nearly lacking head or lace, this stout will fill the stomach with its focused sweetness impressive use of hops (Cluster and Cascade) which add needed bitterness to the finish.


It's a good, middle of the road RIS. Whole Hog's version might not change your life, but the flavorsome brew will impress even seasoned tastebuds.

It's good to know Yuengling isn't the only pre-Prohibition brewery with an independent streak. Both ales exude balance, well-defined flavors and 150-plus years of brewing expertise.