The Wonders of Witkap Pater Tripel

No need to bother with a sampling date for Witkap Pater; this Tripel Abbey Ale has been among my regular libations since first tasting it at the store three months ago.

At first glance, the pale Witkap Pater seems on the light side for a Tripel. Tripels often range into the 9-12 percent range, making them suitable for little more than a nightcap. Not so with Wit-Kap, which clocks in at 7.5 percent ABV. But light doesn't mean water down; Witkap sacrifices nothing compared to those stronger brews, presenting a more diverse complement of fruit and less pepperiness.

While Witkap's ice-cream head takes some time to calm into a thin lace, sharp notes of coriander, cloves and orange citrus punch through from the initial pour. More fruit flavors moderate the dry citrus slightly, including some pineapple. lemon and banana, flavors not seen as often in higher alcohol Tripels. The dry finish does not linger or sear the palette, just fades quickly with a slight tang on the tongue. A bit of white pepper threatens to develop into a greater sensation, but remains a mild accent in a complex ale.

Perhaps its deviation from the standard Belgian Tripel owes something to its roots. Witkap produced the first bloned Tripel, pre-dating the better-known Trappist version from Westmalle. That ale runs close to 10 percent ABV. Witkap has some Trappist ties - it was the only secular brewery ever allowed to use the name "Trappist" and the first to use the Abbey designation when that naming privilege expired. The name "witkap" even refers to the cowls worn by monks of the Cistercian order (aka Trappists).

The Slaghmuylder Brewery produced a Single (for consumer by the Brothers) and a Dubbel, but the Tripel easily earns the crown. Overall, it's august and sublime - compared with the New Belgium Tripel that's been in steady rotation lately, it's completely subtle and never overpowering. The coriander spicing on New Belgium's version is almost stifling. Even the label seems rustic, with the gentle, dignified monk raising a beer glass without any of the gaudiness of St. Bernardus.

Despite many lovely examples of the style available, this easily climbs the ranks among my favorites ever. Westmalle might claim greater renown, but Witkap can boast greater drinkability and far different complexity at a lower alcohol content.