Elevator's Magnificent Mogabi

(I couldn't return from Columbus without at least one beer review. This one beer could not go unheralded.)

After a heavy scotch ale, I found an unexpected treasure on North High Street, a beer brewed to utterly unique heights thanks to a few simple tweaks. The mix of Amarillo hops and white wheat malt gives us Mogabi American Wheat, which Elevator can claim as new domestic style (I think; it didn't taste like any wheat beer born in Europe).

Orange-amber in color, it sublimely melds sharp citrus, a hop zing that plays a memorable supporting role, and the lightness of a session ale. The nose is florid and slightly bitter, although don't expect any wheat ale cloudiness. If beers like Mogabi are the result, I have no qualms with an occasional filtered wheat ale (all the Montana specimens of similar ilk were superb).

Before you scroll elsewhere, I am not reviewing a beer brewed in tribute to mad African dictator. In my absence, Columbus' Elevator Brewing finally graduated to bottles, and selects a handful of its dozens of annual brews for the honor. Elevator brewmaster Vic Schiltz goes by the nickname Mogabi. After having gone through Elevator's MBA program (Master's of Beer Appreciation) and tried its take on dozens of classic beer styles, I can think of no other beer which has had such an immediate impact on the palette. Maybe the African sounding name is appropriate, considering how exotic and balanced it is.

I had it both on tap and in the bottle (the latter a necessity after trying the former). With just one left in the six-pack carton, I can only ponder how to get more with its limited distribution range. Of course, this could become the standard order for all Columbus visitors - come to the door with a six-pack of Mogabi. Then, no one would be disappointed.

But enough gushing. Mogabi pushes beer boundaries in a good way. Swapping in white wheat adds multiple new dimensions, and the Amarillo hops sharpen up the citrus flavor in a way many turgid wheat ales could not fathom. Lightly and deceptively full of flavors abutting each other, it's the total package in a session beer that quenches without a hint of heaviness.

Forget Elevator's flagship - this deserves to be the official brew of Columbus.