Sunday, July 18, 2010

Sierra Nevada Anniversary Ale 2.0: Imperial Helles Bock

Sampled: July 18, 2010

Since first sampling Sierra Nevada's rich anniversary stout back in Boise, I wondered what lied up next. they produced his strong blond lager in cooperation with two homebrewing giants, Charlie Papazian and Ken Eckhardt.

The barley imparts a slightly creamy nose, with fresh ingredients urging the drinker onward. Surprisingly estery and fruity, it bears no resemblance to SN's Glissade spring bock. More often than any other beer style, bock gets bogged down in stereotypes; past generations thought it came from the bottom of the brew kettled. Plus, the regal yet heavy Lenten bocks of Munich - Paulaner Salvator and Aventinus, among others - lead people to believe the style ends there.

SN's team-up with the homebrewing icons is appropriate here, since no helles doppelbock of any flag taste quite like this. If it weren't 8.3 percent ABV, it might evolve into a regular libation. It's slightly sweet like any good bock, but the master brewers let the unexpectedly floral hop bouquet shine. Starts and finishes very clean, without a misplaced note to trip it up. The malt more than rises to the occasion, with a few flourishes of its roasted character but mostly with its subtle dominance.

Sierra Nevada's 30th Anniversary Ale 1.0, the rich stout, suffered the fate of many stouts by not deviating too much from the style. No such problems on this wonder. We have two more anniversary ales to go, but they will have a hard time topping the craft and originality of this imperial helles bock.

This is a untested variation on the bock style, and Sierra Nevada's partners have aided in creation of a masterpiece. Few tread in lager territory, but this fine trio claim it as their own.

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