Notes From August

Ommegang Zuur
Flemish Brown Sour Ale with Cherries Added
Sampled: August 29, 2010

The latest limited edition ale from Belgian brewing’s best domestic torchbearers brings new light on a style seldom tried in the States, sour brown ale. Sour ales are among the most acquired tastes in brewing, and mouths often pucker with the first sample of a geuze or Belgian fruit ale. The Cooperstown-based brewer strikes gold through pairing a Flemish sour brown with an infusion of cherries.

Zuur perfectly strikes the balance between sour and fruit sweetness. The brown ale takes a few seconds to meet the cherry, but the moment they two collide makes the beer. Its lush cherry finish would overpower the palette without the opposing sour force, just as the sour brown cannot surpass its novelty.

With just a touch of hops and malt, the masses would barely qualify Zuur as beer. But it effectively pulls a quirky style away from the fringe. Drinkers of New Glarus’ cherry ale would enjoy the contrast, as would anyone familiar with Eric’s Ale (New Belgium). As much as I poured Eric’s Ale, I prefer Zuur and its 6 percent ABV. The dark flavors of cherries can thrive year-round, while the bright tartness of peach works better in summer. The tart character pulls out other fruits, including a healthy dose of plums.

I couldn’t imagine a beer brewed with cherries could ever join my regular libations. If Zuur ever sheds it limited status, it will prove me wrong.

Pilsner With a Purpose: Abita Save Our Shore
Sampled: Regularly throughout August

I truly wish Gulf Coast tragedies did not end so well for drinkers. Again, Abita has been pressed into making a charity beer. First came the fine Restoration Ale to benefit Hurricane Katrina reconstruction. Now, it drops Save Our Shore, its “charitable pilsner,” with 75 cents from every sale going to charities rebuilding the Gulf ecosystem spoiled by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill.

As with other Abita creations, SOS wasn’t hastily brewed. In fact, this wheat malt pilsner is one of the best domestic beers tasted this year, and among the best American pilsners ever. Light and crispy, the wheat malt does not drive it in any radical directions.

At 7.1 percent ABV, it runs a little strong to pour every day, but the cause behind these bomber bottles argues a strong case in favor of keeping a few around. Little head and lace, SOS has a gentle aftertaste and a little bit of playful hop bitterness.. American pilsners tend toward hoppier variations than this. SOS argues strongly for more pilsners with wheat malt. Since too often the style gets associated with skunked imports showing little character and domestic macrobrewers cutting their product with corn, it’s nice to see its resuscitation.

Hopefully it does not take a generation for the Gulf to rebound from the crude deluge. Beer drinkers can prove their worth by embracing this shockingly great pilsner. Few beers of any style have such incredible causes behind them.


Why I stopped giving grades

I came to a point recently where I abandoned the little ratings at the end of my reviews. The words should stand alone. Besides, what does 7.5 out of 10 really mean?

Look what ratings do – People smuggle Westvleteren 12 back to the States and sell it at astronomical prices because it received a perfect rating on Beer Advocate or Rate Beer. Aside from waiting in line when the monks release the beer or sipping it across the street from the monastery at Cafe Vrede. The monks don't take kindly to the black market has developed - they only sell enough to break even, and inflated demand. Pour a St. Bernardus Abt 12 or a Deus, then tell me sublime beer isn't available in many places.

We get more calls at the wine store about a certain Pappy Van Winkle whiskey than any other because some magazine dubbed it the world’s best whiskey. Every time something gets high marks, the herd’s stampede follows.

Stone’s label descriptions attract the love of frat boys everywhere – they produce some great brews, Arrogant Bastard is a pretty weak choice for an ale so eager to tout its greatness.

Numbers don’t matter. Knowing good beer from bad does. My ratings tended to be overly favorable anyway, because I don’t usually waste time on beer I don’t want to taste. I’m not getting compensated, and life is too short for lousy beer.

Between craft brew and homebrewing, good beer lies within anyone's reach. I'm just trying to provide a little direction, and when I post my vacation beer logs, serve a slice of the region's brewing culture.