In the Zone: Bozeman Brewing Company

Following an early dinner at the Garage, I turned down Broadway, crossed the tracks for my three pints at the Bozeman Brewing Company. It sat in the middle of a neighborhood (I didn't take a picture, so enjoy the mountaintop Bozeman shot - I'm sure the brewery is in there somewhere). The taproom's exterior radiated an Old West vibe with its dark wood paneling and railed porch.

Odors of malted barley thickened the air of the sparsely occupied space. Four middle-aged regulars held court over the bar, essentially daring anyone else to grab a seat. Instead of jousting with them, I sprawled out at a pub table.

Sucker I might be, the Belgian-Style Wit Bier demanded the first taste. It ran a strong second to Beltian White. The subtle orange and lemon run into pineapple and a trace of white grape (seriously). On the finish, cloves take center stage with a supporting case of wheat malt. Bozeman Brewing doesn’t break new ground on its wit, but nails the style.

Since I had sampled their main brews on previous trips, I switched octanes to Hopsimellia Imperial IPA. I’m not sure if brewers are running short on pun-filled nicknames for IPAs, but if someone calls it imperial, it better have balance amid a strong grapefruit body. The hop is strong, not overwhelming, with equal parts biter and sour colliding on the finish and sticking with the palette. The malts imparted some caramel to soften the mighty grapefruit. This worthwhile high-alcohol IPA avoids the trappings of double IPA to stay balanced and drinkable at nearly 10 percent ABV.

Having missed Harvestfest Lager (their Oktoberfest) and not arriving soon enough for their Belgian Tripel or their fresh-hopped ale, I ended with Watershed Pale Ale, their newest lineup addition. Watershed was solid if unspectacular pale ale, extremely fresh and bitter with a golden body. I could have been suffering from hop overkill at this point, and would probably sample Watershed again.

Bozeman Brewing was not a place for a traveler to belly up to talk craft beer. Everything had a workman's ethic to it, even the bartender. It was still a worthwhile stop for lively pints.