Missing in Action: A Tennessee Wishlist for Absent Craft Brews

In discussions with a rep from one of Nashville's large distributors, we came up with a little list of our most desired brewers not in the market. Nashville's portfolio improved immensely in my three-plus years, adding Ommegang, New Belgium, Stevens Point, Brooklyn and even college favorite Erie Brewing.

We shouldn't get greedy, but it's an unavoidable urge among brewhounds. Regions give birth the different attitudes and ingredients in craft brewers. To paraphrase Tip O'Neill, all brewing is local. An emerging city like Nashville needs beer shelves that cater to transplanted tastes.

This list is more dream than reality. A Nashville move would mean increasing production. I won't include Kansas City's Boulevard, which will leave Nashville once its shelf space clears out. Distances are too large for many favorites - I doubt Russian River would stab at a map and pick Middle Tennessee - which eliminates Alaskan, Big Sky, Pike's and Deschutes.

So let's commence the speculation with a quick wishlist.

Bell's
Rumors say some bad blood exists between the Kalamazoo brewery and Tennessee. The truth says I can buy its many flavors in Atlanta, which means its trucks cut right through the Volunteer State. Why not stop? Nashville has the same proportion of hopheads as many other states, and Two Hearted Ale might pressure local efforts like Yazoo's Hop Project series to pick a favorite recipe and stick with it.

Great Lakes
My bias shines on this one, as my early drinking days were peppered with brews from Great Lakes and the defunct Crooked River (Blogger's note: Crooked River was resurrected in 2009). The Holy Quartet of Burning River, Elliot Ness, Dortmunder Gold and Burning River would shine among the often drab selections in the grocery aisle. Blackout Stout would sate lovers of deepest, darkest ale, and Lake Erie Monster could survive on the shelves this far inland. And have you heard about Christmas Ale and its Northeast Ohio holiday tradition?

Goose Island
Goose Island entered my world shortly after Great Lakes. Their beautiful pub in Chicago is a must-visit for beer nerds (plus, it's a block from Sam's Wine & Spirits, and their crisp, clean ales would shake up the grocery aisle. For a time, I just rotated between Honker's Ale, their IPA and the exquisite Oatmeal Stout. None let me down (this year's spoiled Mathilda was another matter). The Chicago favorite's line of wild-yeast, barrel-aged beers would be a hot seller at their affordable price (Tennessee's alcohol taxes would push them up a little, but not dramatically so).

Allagash
This perennial favorite also inexplicably skips Atlanta for Nashville. Maine's finest could elbow out some competitors with its mighty Grand Cru and White ales, while simultaneously appeal to the high-end crowd with its oak, grape and yeast experiments. Their Grand Cru could be my favorite strong session ale, as the brewery truly pushes to create a special ale.

Southampton
I include this Long Island institution out of respect and curiosity. I haven't sampled beyond their fantastic saison and double white, so self-interest demands I have access to more. But Ommegang quickly caught on - I have Vanderbilt docs at the store who swear by the Abbey Ale. Another competitor in the strong Belgian-style arena would not hurt. With Boulevard leaving, there's a void to fill, and Phil Markowski's concoctions, especially his august double white, would more than cover the distance. We created an army of strong Belgian-style wit drinks thanks to Boulevard Two Jokers, so the market exists.