Singled Out: Another Witkap-Pater

Sampled: Throughout most of February 2011

There's nothing like uncovering a new import from a favorite Belgian brewer. On a recent excursion, I found 4-packs of this rare Belgian abbey single ale. The Trappist monks primarily keep their lightest brew, the single (singel), for the brothers’ consumption at meals. Only a few leave the monasteries. Rochefort 6 would also qualify, but its dark recipe is hardly indicative of this style.

I adore Witkap-Pater Tripel, one of the style’s palest examples. The Slagmuylder Brewery in Ninove, Belgium produces unique Trappist-style ales. In fact, they were the first secular brewery to brew ales similar to those of the Trappists.

Although their range of ales is smaller than St. Bernardus of St. Feiullen, Slagmuylder's two blonde brews are among Belgium’s best (I've yet to find their Dubbel, also available stateside).

With a nose heavy on the banana and cloves, Witkap-Pater Singel couldn’t be paler. Grains of paradise and lemon pepper quickly swoop in. The aftertaste is thick with dry lemon and orange peel. The yeast keeps this a creamy and crisp affair.

The balance between cream and zest puts Witkap-Pater Singel into the upper echelon of light Belgian ales. Although these tastes often come from Belgian whites, Witkap-Pater Singel lacks the heavy body of most wheat ales. Unfortunately, too few Belgian ales like this reach the U.S. market.

One note of caution: Make sure Witkap-Pater brews have not endured a lengthy stay on the store shelf. Some light-colored Belgian ales turn to geysers when opened. Other encounter some cap oxidization, giving the beer an off-putting metallic odor. This odor will fade with a little air time, but it speaks poorly of the brewery.

That makes Witkap-Pater Singel a rare catch. Priced at $15.99 a six-pack, it might be too expensive for an everyday drinker, although it performs perfectly as a session ale. For the quality, it's hard to skip, given the lack of similar Belgian quaffers available.