Sam Adams' Latest Scottish Twist

Samuel Adams Wee Heavy
Sampled: March 25, 2011

Lacking the trademark portrait of Sam Adams with a beer mug, I initially overlooked the four-pack. With a Scottish castle replacing the brewer-patriot, this latest addition to the Imperial Series signaled a new direction.

Long years have passed since my last Sam Adams Scotch Ale. Ever since it migrated to the Brewmaster’s Collection mixed six-pack, it gets ignored. If Wee Heavy becomes a regular in the Imperial Series, I might forget it ever existed.

Wee Heavy tops the scales of Scottish ales. The peat-smoked barley is a different twist; Scotch distillers are the only ones to smoke their malt. Its brewers tend to skip the smoked malt. But smoked malt has a long history in beer. German smoke beers (rauchbier) tend to overwhelm the palate unless paired with barbecue of similar character.

The nose burns bright with black pepper, peaty smoke, hints of mahogany, leather, cherry and a sprig of spearmint. It’s easy to question whether the parade of flavors will ever end.

Unlike the smoke beer, Sam Adams Wee Heavy pulls the smoky curtain back and allows other flavors to flourish. There’s a kick of molasses, tobacco and anise seed before the blanket descends again. The finishing smoke differs from the initial blast, offering a velvet touch.

Like a glass of fine Islay Scotch, Sam Adams Wee Heavy isn’t an all-night quaffer. A single Wee Heavy will smoke up the windows in no time. Few American Scotch-style ales (well, outside of Montrana’s Madison River or Kettlehouse) come this close to besting its originators.