Fond Farewell: The last 90-Minute ride

Sampled: April 3, 2011

There’s no mystery behind Dogfish Head’s departure from Tennessee.

Brewer Sam Calagione’s reality show exposed them to the masses, and everyone wanted a taste. We missed out on our annual batch of 120-Minute IPA, as well as the 2010 editions of the ancient ales. In Nashville, Dogfish Head left a long time ago.

I only miss the novelties, like Chateua Jiahu, Theobroma and Sahtea, that tasted best when imbibed once a year. Palo Santo Marron is incredible, but who can drink more than one a month?

Fortunately, we got a last shipment from the Delaware brewer, a token supply of 90-Minute IPA and Squall, a bottle conditioned version of 90-Minute. The groceries received a last shipment of 60-Minute, and the smoother-than-smooth IPA will receive its own last pour.

But I bought 60-Minute regularly enough. My acquaintance with 90-Minute IPA needed a renewal. With our two cases the last we will stock from Dogfish Head, it was time. For all the accolades, I always preferred Avery’s Maharajah with its balanced attach of grapefruit and dry citrus. The continuous hop process works wonders again, preserving flavor and balanced without turning extreme. America is filled with overdone double and imperial IPAs; this is not one of their ilk.

The hop bitterness doesn’t blast the palate; it glides, pushing its floral character. It curls into a sweet malt moment on the finish. It’s dry, but paced with a delicate array of herbs and citrus. It’s a better warm weather ale than I remember; apparently it was dark at the Winking Lizard that night and I remembered a different beer (seriously, the World Tour is cool, but too many beers get lost in pursuit of the jacket).

90-Minute is still an incredible concoction, slaughtering the extreme IPA competition. With a quartet of Palo Santo Marrons. some 60-Minute and three Squall 90-Minutes inhabiting the beer cave, this last hurrah could last a year.