Breakroom Libations: New Feuillen, Old Dark Carolus Cuvee

St. Feuillen Speciale

Sampled: Dec. 16, 2011

St. Feuillen holds a steady spot in the wild pack of Belgian Abbey Ales. It has grown more experimental in recent years,  and one of its latest takes a fresh spin on Abbey Dubbels and holiday ales. St. Feuillen ages Speciale for a minimum of 6 weeks in cold tanks and 2 more weeks in the warm room. By cellaring it, St. Feuillen knocks off many of the rough edges a younger strong ale might flash.

The effervescent head sizzles down quickly, and the brown body opens up with flashes of chocolate and sassafras inflected with spearmint. Cinnamon also crops up. The finish is dry and herbal, almost medicinal at times, a dimension I never expected.

At first, $15 seemed a little steep, but it’s Christmastime. The spice complexity propels the beer past normal Abbey-style Dubbels and makes it more interesting than most Christmas ales. The spice bouquet more than validates the price of admission.

Gouden Carolus 2006 Grand Cru of the Emperor

Sampled: Dec. 19, 2011

The cork twisted off with no fanfare, giving this august beer an almost silent opening. The crew at the wine store would be the ones making the noise. Cuvee van de Keizer Blau had arrived. Het Anker’s once-a-year dark ale emerges into the light. As with many Belgian quadruple ales, it has evolved significantly since disappearing to age into the darkness.

The sweetness is astonishing, but still drinkable. Often called the port wine of beers, Belgian quads take on those characteristics after a few years. The Grand Cru not only resembles port, but its sweetness veers into the same cupboard as Calvados, the apply brandy aged for years in French limousine oak. Raisins rule the roost, accompanied by sprinkles of dates and figs. Creamy textures rise mid-palate and sail into the finish.

There’s a fine whiff of banana bread lurking in the brown depths, and its reasserts itself on the creamy finish. Five years after brewing, a bit of orange peel still resides within.

Forget the 10 percent ABV on the bottle; that bird flew a long time ago. The brilliance of aging strong Belgian ales makes it irrelevant. This is beautiful ale, dark and faceted like a pricey gem.

I have sampled past vintages, including 2000, 2004, 2005 and 2007, but this is the first I had aged under optimal conditions. It might be an odd tradition, but buying a Cuvee van de Keizer just to hide it for a half-decade delivers on its promise every time.