The River of Dreams, Pt. 2

California Demon: Russian River Damnation

Sampled: Dec. 10, 2011

Russian River did not barrel age Damnation, but it did bring Belgium’s tradition of devilishly named golden ales to northern California. Kept under cork in a pint bottle, Damnation roars out with a stiff nose of citrus, Belgian-style yeast and a little clove (not anywhere near wheat Delerium Tremens displays, though).

Damnation’s finish couldn’t be crisper, with a bill of malted grain and cracked spices coating the palate. As much as I get bored with coriander, that won’t happen here. The malt and the spice mingle too well for any complaints. An earthy character not unlike pine or spruce needles is buried deep in that citrus body, a sign of the hops.

Bottle refermentation seems to submerge hops further, but there’s nothing going on that they are not missed. The devilish connotation owes something to the highly drinkable nature of ales like Duvel and Sloeber, among others. Damnation joins the tradition, pouring down with great ease.

As much as it reminds me of those, it could also pass for a cousin of Westmalle Tripel, the dean of Belgian strong pale ales. Damnation’s alcohol content is a little steep for everyday consumption (7.75 percent ABV). But for those of us without easy access, Russian River ales are akin to that rare bottle of wine in the cellar. The special occasion arrives whenever you pop the cork.

Batch 70

Last Splash in Russian River: Temptation Barrel Aged Ale

Sampled: Dec. 11, 2011

Finally, I have arrived at the cork of Temptation. Thus ends my tour of Russian River’s sour and Belgian-style ales for 2011. A steady diet of bubbles enlivens the glass. The lace barely barely clings to the pale golden body.

The nose erupts with banana, passion fruit and a mighty cidery mustiness. Aged in chardonnay barrels for nine to 12 months, Temptation quickly proved itself as otherworldly as Consecration and Supplication, the two other delectable sour ales. Try as I might to find fault with Russian River’s heavily lionized sour ales, I cannot – they are among the best North American ales and richly reinterpret Flemish sours.

Temptation springs down a different path from many sours. Temptation would steamroll most ciders in tartness. As with all the other Russian River ales, its sour character does not pummel the palate. By using brettanomyces instead of lactobacillus, the mustiness is replaced by tartness usually reserved for beers like Orval and Goose Island’s Matilda and Sophie. God, Temptation is purely sublime; the brett pushes it to unusual heights. 

While golden like Damnation, they could not be less alike. I see the use of chardonnay barrels as a necessary turn to greatness; pinot noir and Cabernet sauvignon barrels get all the attention, but blonde ale is a natural fit for chardonnay. Temptation is a little mellower than the dark sours, but it should be. An easy fit for fans of brett-rich beers cannot miss Temptation.