On the Road: Lexington's West Sixth Brewing Co.

A welcome sight in any new town

With a name so tied to its place, West Sixth Brewing might have limited options should its owners decide to uproot. That won't be happening anytime soon, not with the monster facility and taproom the brewery runs in a quiet neighborhood north of downtown Lexington.

The July heat eased enough for us to camp out on the patio. I imagine it would be even more hopping during the school year. On a Saturday when the mercury pushed at 100, the tasting room was mostly full, the patio was empty and a large room with  picnic tables and garage doors had a few Wi-Fi users.

We started with a Bellaire Saison, a hazy orange ale punctuated by bright orange aromas. Spices rose up, especially coriander and white pepper. Orange and lemon flavors dominated, with a dose of rye aiding the spices. A sizzle of baking bread popped up during the finish. West Sixth poured a pretty solid saison with textures perfect for a heat wave.

Bellaire Saison, Deliberation Amber

Deliberation Amber might have been the most surprising ale we tasted. This medium-bodied ale is embellished nicely by a strong uptick of Pacific Northwest hops. What could have been an ordinary ale becomes increasingly complex with pine resin and spruce notes.

For the second round, we traded sips of Dead Heat Wheat, an  amazing Belgian White reminiscent of Celis White, the dean of the style. The nose and body throw out scents of licorice, pears, pineapple lavender and a spritz of lemon. The herbal tones produce a otherworldly wheat, fine for any season.

While we sat, a fair number of people pulled up for growler fills. That only amplified its feel as a neighborhood brewery.

To close our visit we hoisted a pint of West Sixth IPA, the only beer the brewery sells in cans. While balanced, this IPA had a heavy share of Pacific Northwest hops (yes, those again). Very bitter all around, West Sixth IPA definitely hits its mark.  I could not handle more than one pint without a water chaser. But I like the ways in which the lemon, tea and grapefruit highlights mixed with those fragrant hops. 

An attentive bartender dug deep to find some West Sixth stickers, a gesture welcomed by every beer lover. For a lineup that at a glance appeared ordinary, West Sixth produced some tantalizing spins on traditional session ales.