Friday, November 30, 2012

Ommegange Strikes Twice With Farmhouse Finesse


 After its experiment with Biere de garde, Ommegang left me craving something more. Sure, I could always turn back to Hennepin or BPA. But the new offering did not seize me.

Fast forward a month. Problem solved.

Ommegang Duvel Rustica
Sampled: Nov. 16, 2012
The devilish brews of Belgium now have an American cousin. This ale has a label Duvel could only produce in shadow, with the devil imbibing and a goat desperate for a taste of the evil brew in his goblet

Ommegang takes its own spin on the Belgian classic, which is brewed with pale malts and has lager character to complement its Belgian nature. Ommegang substitutes his own yeast to move in fresh directions.

An immense aroma profile emerges from a head of medium thickness. Cream and esters dominate the nose.  Tropical fruit prepares to burst out. Plenty of passion fruit follows across the palate, with mango, peach and even papaya popping in.

The finish is rough, more in line with saison and pilsner, the latter due to the noble hops (I believe Duvel leans on spicy Saaz . Spices rush in, with some herbs (chamomile, spearmint, perhaps) to balance them out. A finger or two of cream continue all the way through.

Duvel’s rustic relative proves that the original American saison has plenty of untapped farmhouse potential. 

Horatio, there are more blends of malt and Belgian yeast that are dreamt of in your philosophy. Speaking of which ...

Ommegang Scythe & Sickle
Sampled: Nov. 17, 2012
Another new Ommegang? The beer gods smile down. This harvest ale bears some similarity to Ommegang’s flagship ale, but goes in wildly different directions.

Born from rye, barley, wheat and oat malts, Scythe and Sickle succeeds with its grain bill. Those textures and a fine effervescence build a superb autumn afternoon ale.

Rich with cream and esters, Scythe and Sickle exhibits some banana and clove on the nose and early palate. Some amber notes, a little pear, a little lemon zest and more burnt orange. 

A lot of brewers experiment with Belgian session ales, but few do more than dangle them for a brief season.

Scythe and Sickle’s flavor could fit any month. The finish brims with herbs and spices fluttering on that effervescence.

No comments: