Monday, November 12, 2012

With Fall Back, Drink Forward


Sierra Nevada/Dogfish Head Life & Limb 2
Sampled: Oct. 27, 2012
After nearly three years in the stash, we decided to go out on Life & Limb, the second such collaboration between Sierra Nevada and Dogfish Head. The pitch-black body holds up a firm, creamy lace.

What would have been imperial mild with bitter chocolate and occasional hints of sassafras becomes devilishly more complex. The birch and maple syrups give rise to molasses and cream. Hints of port pop up and some dates and raisin appear on the finish.

There is still a fist of hop bitterness on the back palate, unexpected for a bottle with age. Bottle conditioning has left it quite effervescent, and the syrups obviously served as excellent food for the yeast during those cellar years.

An ambient sweetness from the syrups rounds out the finish, coating the mouth almost like honey. This one flew under most radar, but represents a quiet triumph for collaboration beers. I expected little, but Life & Limb succeeds years later.

Hopping Frog Frog’s Hollow Double Pumpkin
Sampled: Oct. 14, 2012
A blast of spices announces the entrance into Frog’s Hollow. Brewed from an Akron-area restaurant’s pumpkin recipe, Frog’s Hollow includes allspice, cinnamon, ginger, clove and nutmeg, the last of which definitely plays a key role. Nutmeg’s a spice only noticeable in large amounts. In Frog’s Hollow, it defines the bouquet and guides the pumpkin notes. Frog’s Hollow has more pumpkin than the others we’ve tasted.

The spice bouquet backs off a little before the finish, and thankfully lacks the close so common in pumpkin ales. The gourd comes alive and the allspice, cinnamon and some hints of alcoholic black pepper. Frog’s Hollow is transparent and quite smooth for its intensity.  The pie spices push Frog’s Hollow into a competitor to Southern Tier Pumpking. The ability to manage those spices and the pumpkin speaks to Hopping Frog’s brewing prowess.
Sam Adams Merry Mischief Gingerbread Stout
Batch No. 1
Sampled: Oct. 25, 2012
Boy, don’t let this one chill too long. The spices quickly become buried beneath the roasted malt. Call it holiday stout if you must label Merry Mischief. With clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and ginger, it fits the season.  

 Once a little warm in the glass, the spices rise above the roasted character, led by nutmeg and ginger. The gingerbread spices compliment the roasted malt quite nicely. For hops, Sam Adams wisely picked East Kent Goldings and Fuggles, pushing this stout in an English direction. There’s a hop presence, but those two varieties tend to know their place.

At 9 percent ABV, Merry Mischief is big stout, one that sneaks upon the drinker who ignores the notes of pepper buried under the spice and the roasted nuts emanating from the malt.

Oily and with hints of anise, molasses and licorice, the body definitely turns sweet. For future batches, Sam Adams should push the spices harder. Although they impact the flavor profile of Merry Mischief, this massive stout is sturdy enough to retain its characteristics while letting the spices shine brighter. Cellar a bottle or two for a holiday toast; it will be pouring well for many holidays to come.
Sam Adams Dunkelweizen
Sampled: Sept. 29, 2012
Sam Adams fall seasonal adds three new beers to its mix. Harvest Brown didn’t bring any surprises, but would satisfy most brown ale fans. As for Pumpkin Ale, people like pumpkin or you don’t. The pie spices are not too overwhelming, but the pumpkin does not push back enough. The keeper from this bunch is Sam Adams Dunkelweizen.

The dark wheat style often gets ignored in favor of bright, citrus-laden hefeweizen. The light wheat ales dominate spring and summer drinking. When autumn arrives, the creamier dark wheat, rich with spices, becomes a better fit.

The creamy character permeates the entire beer. Hints of citrus remain amid touches of darker grain. Clove and nutmeg have cameos but don’t linger. The wheat malt gives off a sturdy banana character balanced by bits of hazelnut and almond. The wheat produces a delicate sizzle on the finish.

Complex and drinkable, Sam Adams Dunkelweizen saves the Fall Seasonals pack and makes a case for a Brewmaster’s Collection slot or (dare I dream) a solo six-pack next to Octoberfest. They could make quite the seasonal pair.

Sam Adams Harvest Pumpkin
Sampled: Oct. 14, 2012
Strangely, Harvest Pumpkin has a trace of smoke and an overabundance of malt. The yeast needs food and in a pumpkin ale, that source should be obvious.  I detect some pumpkin but it’s less obvious than it should be in such an ale.  The spices assert themselves on the finish.

Maybe it loses points coming on the heels of Whole Hog Pumpkin and Frog’s Hollow. I hoped for more and maybe Sam Adams can refine its approach with future releases.

No comments: