De Proef Two-Step: Lunatique and Mystique

This due sat atop my sister's fridge for the past five months, so on my recent trip to Chicago, it was time to revive the beer-review machine with a Tripel and Quadruple.

Lunatique

Tripel Belgian Ale
De Proef Brouerij
8.5 percent ABV
750 mL corked bottle
Sampled: November 14, 2008

The name is inescapable. The beer attached is not far behind, even if it doesn’t come off as emblematic of its style.

Falling into the unofficial Devilish Brew class (aka beers modified on Duvel), Lunatique considers itself a Tripel. I disagree – it delicately straddles the line between

For my first beer in eight days, I see few better choices than a beer so aptly describing my own mental state?

Lunatique pours with a thick yet effervescent heads that quickly dissipates. The brunt orange body does not have the purer flavors seen in many Tripels. The orange is accompanied by a dry apricot. Beyond that, Lunatique mixes in a little miscellaneous citrus and graininess common in beers made with quality malts. One sip of Lunatique gives me visions of amber waves – in Belgium, of course.

The grains shine through more clearly than in many triples – this one veers closer to Saison thanks to its rustic character. It would land on the high end of Saison alcohol content, but a little low for most Belgian Tripels.

That’s fine by me – too often the alcohol in Tripels soars beyond . Lunatique is still a nightcap, but instead takes a mellow journey.

The alcohol content kicks up a peppery finish. This bottle sat for six months, so the contribution of age is unclear.

At least Lunatique is no Duvel clone; it follows its own crazy streak.

Rating: 8/10

Cuvee Mystique
Abt Style Belgian Ale
De Proef Brouerij
8.5 percent ABV
Sampled: Nov. 15, 2008

One good De Proef deserves a follow-up, one much darker than Lunatique but similar in alcohol strength.
The nose projects a strong chocolate-tinged molasses, more potent than usual for the style. The head quickly bubbles down to tan lace, but the effervescence lingers; that’ a major departure from thicker, port-like Quadruples.

From there, it develops a ripe dark fruit bouquet, with dates and figs most prominent. Those fruits tail off into a bitterness with a strangle sparkle embedded in it.

While lacking the complexity of many quadruples, Mystique possesses what most lack – drinkability. Even at 8.5 percent, it’s a smooth ride without the heaviness those big ales often present.

Mystique finishes dry, almost like a stout and without the creaminess of most quadruples. The finish casts a roasted patina on the entire package.

While not on par with St Bernardus Abt 12 or Chimay Grand Reserve, Mystique deviates enough from the Abt/Quadruple template to earn repeated visits.

Rating: 7/10