Rye as a Fox: French Broad Dry Hopper Ale

Sampled: Oct. 6, 2010

After two beers from French Broad, I might need a trip to Asheville. If southern brewers can claim any beer as their own, it would be the rye ale (god-awful pecan beers exempted). My first year in Nashville leaned heavily on Terrapin's Rye Pale Ale. French Broad outdoes them from the beginning, its florid nose bursting with red and dark fruits like dates, but after a fresher scale than I expected. Hints of blood orange, apple lead into the golden-brown body and its rye luxury.

Don't ask me to explain the chemistry, but I believe rye serves as a better anchor for the kettles full of hops demanded by American palettes. Rye's deep textures alternately throw off flavors, starting sweet and finishing dry, where the grain really comes on strong. The head bubbles briefly, instilling a little creaminess which vanishes into the rye.

Despite its 5.9 percent ABV, Dry Hopper effectively masks its alcohol content with the dry malty finish. It reminds me of the Stone's "black" IPA, mixing new malts with stronger layers of hops. If anything, Dry Hopper serves up a delightful change from brewers that think IPA is the only avenue to complex, hoppy beer. Let's get an Asheville trip on the calendar.