As a style, Extra Special Bitter has caused massive yawns from American hopheads. When executed properly, it delivers a sharp hop flavor all its own. This ESB from Asheville brewery French Broad hits all the marks - slightly hoppy and exquisitely bitter, 13 Rebels is prototypical craft ale, respecting its origins while boldly blazing a new path.
Highly floral and with a hint of red fruits and even licorice, the bouquet blows away most imported versions. That lactose sweetness emerges from the malt, sticking on the palette until the bitterness descends.
The best moment had yet to arrive. Buried in the bitter is a peach, nectarine and possibly plum tartness; the unexpected fruit exhibit from the hop is so surprising it's hard to catch every flavor it radiates. that little slice of fruitiness pushes onto new ground without challenging the ESB's necessities. Chalk it up as the most original bouquet to dazzle these senses all year.
French Broad spins a British style in its own fashion without traipsing across ESB with an explosion of hops, malt or other ingredients.
These North Carolina brewers merely give the British a run for their money, exactly the expectation we should have of 13 Rebels. All session ale should scale such heights.
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