Friday, March 11, 2011

Cleveland's Impish Upstart Goes Old School


Sampled: March 6, 2011

An offbeat Cleveland brewer could offer Great Lakes some creative competition. Not that Indigo Imp (or “blue devil”, if you will) is like any other brewer. They use open vessels, allowing the wild yeasts to infiltrate and influence the ale. Concentrating on Belgian-style ales, they seem likely to craft a niche in the ever-crowded craft beer market.

I began with the Blonde Bombshell. The head is thick and stubborn but remarkably fragrant. Nose is subtle, but rich with mango, peach, tangerine and a dry floral background.

Following a little B vitamin touch, a little peak of tartness lurks within. The yeasty wildness isn’t ready to proclaim its presence, but it should expand with time. There’s definitely enough brett to pucker the mouth every so slightly. I hold onto hope that this blonde could go in an Orval-esque direction

After Blonde Bombshell hits the palate, that quickly passes into a bright peach-orange body and finish. The carbonation threatens orange soda territory, albeit without the artificial sweeteners. Fortunately it pulls back before that sensation can spoil the experience.

Without that funkiness, Blonde Bombshell would taste awfully close to a Boulder Sweaty Betty clone. This young blonde is shapely and slightly mysterious, leaving me wondering how it will change over time.

Up next was Jester, Indigo Imp’s take on a Tripel and not a Duvel variation as the name might suggest. Jester’s nose presents a bigger funk profile, with a head that sharpens into a crewcut in just seconds and a crisp, burnt citrus character.

Jester’s spicier bouquet and body speaks to the Tripel style. It leaves touches of coriander, lemongrass, white pepper, root vegetables and grains of paradise.
There’s a little tang pushing upward into the burnt orange, and it should grow more insistent with aging. It mingles nicely with the spices. Lemon elevates its presence on the finish.

The wild yeast tweaks that lemon gently, leaving the palate coated and wanting more. This one definitely needs more bottle time, as Jester feels a bit like a joke told too soon. I kept wanting a deeper flavor profile or more exuberant flourish from the brett.

Look for an Indigo Imp update once these ales log some bottle time. Fortunately, Indigo Imp places a wax seal on one bottle in each six-pack, ideal for a spot in the cellar. They will not be the last brewer to add this simple flourish.
At first taste, I would recommend the Blonde Bombshell and pass on Jester, which just isn't devious enough yet.

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