Mighty Ommegang

Brewed Under a Great Sign: Ommegang Biere de Mars
Sampled: March 6, 2011

My Ommegang infatuation only gets fed so often – well, four times so far in 2011.
Their Biere de Mars has blipped on my radar for years. Only in Columbus did I find a last corked bottle from Ommegang’s third batch, brewed in November 2008.


A refermentation with brettanomyces bruxellensis separates this ale from biere de mars’ cousin, Saison, and from the brett-created Ommegeddon Funkhouse Ale. The age allows the brett to settle down.

Very light-bodied, Biere de Mars pours slightly amber in color. At first glance, it’s a dead ringer for Rare Vos. But it’s a cloudy orange affair with a thin, sparkling head.

Ommegang’s Biere de Mars stabs with a rich, brett-heavy nose that produces unparalleled floral tone and an acidic, cidery musk. I catch traces of hibiscus, orchid and lavender (at least I think I do). That touch of barnyard flair perfectly fits biere de mars and the naturally occurring yeasts which would funk up a French farmhouse ale. It’s a rare nose, regal, overpowering and alluring.

Plenty of fruit emerges, headlined by orange with banana, cloves and ginger in supporting roles. A slight twist of earth sticks the whole way , imparting character not unlike Bordeaux from a good vintage. Dry-hopping contributes to the floral tones, and exudes some bitterness to push against the mighty tartness.

The brett erupts on the finish, letting its acidic, tart character. As with many Belgian sours, it activates the taste buds, ensuring the bottle won’t last long. Trace amounts of sediment speckle the glass.

Ommegang strives to avoid cloning Orval, which many brewers resort to. Domestically, only Boulevard’s Saison Brett and Schlafly’s Biere de Mars rival the Franco-Belgian originators. Other unabashedly copy the Trappist great.

While waiting for Ommegang’s next brilliant experiment, start spring on the tart note with this lovely, elegant Biere de Mars. It differs enough from Hennepin, Ommegeddon and the untouchable Orval to impress most Belgian-loving palates.


Chocolate Indulgence (Take Two)
(This hails from January)
It’s hard to comprehend why Belgian stout prove so long in the making. Chocolate malts might not top Belgian brewers’ lists, but country renown for chocolate seemed a natural for stout. In recent years, I have tasted plenty of Belgian-style stouts, including some re-fermented in the bottle. None approach the decadence of Ommegang Chocolate Indulgence. Having only tasted it once, at Christmas 2007, I thought it eanred a reexamination now that it finally reached Nashville.

Chocolate Indulgence will not be mistaken for Young’s Double Chocolate. Ommegang uses the confection with skilled and subtlety. It forms a soft yet lush backdrop throughout the entire beer, carrying into a bitter malt finish. There’s nothing velvety about this stout.; its rough, rustic character prevents its inherent oiliness from growing dominant.

Just as magical as I remember it, Chocolate sets the pinnacles to which Belgian-style stouts can aspire. Beneath that frothy head bubbles an effervescent brew that never strikes the palate, but massages it, ensuring nothing else will serve as the last beer of the night.