Juniper Joy: Rogue John John

Rogue John John Ale
Sampled: June 4, 2011

A Nashville customer repeatedly asked about this Rogue brew. It never arrived in the market, so I obtained my sample in Columbus. Named for the Oregon operation’s brewmaster and spirit master (they distill as well), John John takes pale and livens it up with juniper berries and aging in spruce gin barrels. Head fizzes down to a fine layer of creamy lace. John John Juniper is the second in its series of brewery/distillery collaborations.

The juniper pushes out of the floral nose. It tempts me to expect a hoppy beer, but John John swerves elsewhere. Thanks to Rogue’s notes, I knew to look for cucumber, and on the nose and front of the palate, I definitely sense some cucumber flesh (no bittern skin, though).

Bone dry, all the way through, with orange and mango flourishes arises. A tiny bit of barrel contact creeps in as it finishes. There’s definitely a strain of brett lurking deep in here, whether intentional or not, it meshes well with the passion fruit and citrus.

I want to root out some rye in this ale, but this is no sahti. The malts have staggering scope. I know the Pacman yeast frustrates some palates, but I appreciate the way it navigates all these flavors which could go awry when combined. This is not a novelty, but a perfect ale for a summer as nasty as this.

Call it another fruit ale triumph for Rogue. For people who avoid this brewer, the Chatoe Rogue series and victories like John John should earn a reappraisal. Their commitment to local ingredients produces exhilarating ales.