Knock Any Time: Tommyknocker Golden Saison

Sampled: June 6, 2011

Tommyknocker quietly produces solid stylistic brews with an individualistic streak, so I eagerly grabbed a pint bottle. The nose is rich with lemon, mango and pear, embellished with a sour sizzle. I didn’t expect to see that rare attribute emerge from the esters.

With round fruit tones wedged between the esters, this is bold, American saison. It lacks the gritty grip of Belgian and French originals, but more than compensates with a rich fruit and a vein of sour brightness. It meshes well with the unpredictability of the saison yeast’s esters. The spices began more apparent with each sip, but they have a cleanliness that somehow works with the fruit flavors here. Tommyknocker blends four Belgian yeast strains and it works wonders. The Perle hops are barely present but for a moment of bittering.

This Golden Saison rules its own territory. As long as the heat reins, it’s an affable, complex quaffer.