Friday, July 15, 2011

Scotch Ales Suitable For Summer

Asheville is a brewing mecca of the Eastern U.S. Situated in North Carolina's "Highlands," their explorations into Scotch ale seem appropriate.

In full disclosure, I must mention now that neither of these possesses the heft of Sam Adams Wee Heavy, the peat-smoked 10 percent monster.

Both perfectly fit the bill for a strong, malty ale, even in the middle of summer. I drink both when the temperatures soared.

Highland Tasgall Ale
Sampled: April 23, 2011

If there's one style this brewery owes its devotees, it's Scotch ale. Its Highlands are the Blue Ridge Mountains, but those peaks are a solid domestic surrogate the the Scottish Highlands.

The nose is luxurious malt, with fingers of molasses, banana, chocolate, anise and caraway seed all mixed in. All of them are subdued by the splendid run of smoked malt. There's no peat to upset the balance.

Not as hoppy as I expected, Tasgall finishes with a clean citrus bite and an oily texture wedged between coffee tones created by the malt. By going with Sterling hops instead of something sharper and North American, Highland does not let a higher concentration of hops derail its Scotch ale.

Tasgall runs 8 percent, making it hard to recommend as a daily libation. Certainly it deserves attention from those who appreciate the complexities upon which Scotch ales thrive.

French Broad Wee Heavy-er
Sampled: July 14, 2011

The irony of drinking a French Broad on Bastille Day was not lost on me, evne if the name comes from the river running through Asheville. The nose sports plenty of molasses, chocolate, coffee and caramel. An oily character emerges early in the brunette body. The roasted malt flavors break through and impact a few puffs of smokiness, but nothing to suggest hours over a robust fire. It finishes quite crisp on the palate, without a suggestion of hop strength.

The brewery's most popular ale, its name and the angry Scottish guy on the label hoisting the world both imply something more monstrous. At 7 percent, this Scotch ale is almost session-worthy.

As it warms in the glass, some raisins and dates creep into the flavor profile. It has almost no aftertaste, but a gentle creaminess coats the mouth. More Scotch ales should take note of that final point.

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