Two of Boon's higher alcohol lambics landed at the Cru this week, and I couldn't contain myself. Normally sour beers and fruit lambics don't approach the alcohol content at which we can sell beer. The results were mixed, but at least one will earn a repeat visit.
Boon Kriek 2008 reminds me of a less carbonated version of Casteel Rouge. The rich cherry flavor obviously dominates while the sour backbone creeps in mid-palate and never wavers. It does not linger on the mouth. I can't stomach cherry ales on a regular basis, but believe Boon Kriek 2008 hits a few marks.
Boon Geuze 2007 is a little weirder and better for its quirks. The nose is brilliantly sour --- musty barnyard tones on a bed of cidery yeast. Boon also wedged in some lemon zest and grains of paradise. The body speaks to an older beer -- Boon does not blend this geuze but lets it sit for three years in oak barrels.
As it warms in the glass, the sour character gains strength. By going strictly with older lambic, I believe Boon produced a mellower version. Cantillon blends one-, two- and three-year-old lambic in its Geuze and it's a beautiful puckerfest.
Boon 2007 does not reach that height, but it shows obvious marks of wild yeasts and lactobacillus. Severely burnt orange flavors collide with a mildly sour burst that never crests at the epic levels. As much as sours have become the toast of beer lovers, I do tire of the relentless pucker some produce. This one suits me fine.
Boon serves up a nice introductory sour, which should suit those of us who don't want every sour ale to steal a layer of enamel from our teeth.
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