Hail to the hieroglyphics: Ta henket

The label copies the oldest known depiction of the brewing process from ancient Egypt.

"Dogfish Head Ta Henket"

Sampled: Jan. 8, 2012

Dogfish Head has landed in Egypt with this ancient ale. Who needs hops when you have Za’atar, Doum Fruit, Emmer Farro’ and chamomile? 

Sam Calagione traveled to Cairo to acquire an Egyptian saccharomyces yeast strain. The bulk of those strange ingredients are Middle Eastern herbs, and the fruit of the doum palm is a popular local delicacy in Egpyt. As usual, there are no half-measures with these guys.

A delightful lemon herb bouquet springs from the glass. No head, but plenty of effervescence bubbles in Ta henket’s golden-bronze body. Beneath the herbs lurks some extremely dry fruit. It won’t last, taking some unexpected turns that hearken to lush, pulpy fruits.

Some Belgian character, including some elusive estery notes, breaks into the picture, probably due to the free-range Egyptian yeast. The round yet exotic fruit opens up splendidly on the palate. Ta Henket produces lots of passion fruit, including mango and papaya. Some burnt orange also sneaks in. The whole affair let me with a craving for doum fruit.

The finish has some grainy textures that close it well. Unlike the rest of the Ancient Ale series, Ta Henket could work as a session ale – were its ingredients not so esoteric.