Hey Porter: A Little Ommegang Darkness

"Ommegang Seduction Belgian-Style Porter"
Sampled: Jan. 25, 2012

Ommegang has released its limited edition experiments quite liberally in the past two years,
Ommegang and other brewers have adapted non-Belgian styles with Belgian yeast and spice. The only Belgian close was Sterkens Poorter, a strong Belgian ale that derives its name from the Flemish name the ending of serfdom (or something like that - but it isn't porter). Ommegang has free reign to experiment. As with recent limited brews like Aphrodite, Belgian-style porter goes far beyond adding a Belgian yeast strain to dark ale.

Roasted coffee and caramel textures coat the palate but leave room for the subtle but undeniable cherry twist. The inclusion of cocoa from Belgium's Chocolatier Callebut does not overload Seduction or turn it into a dessert beer. Aside from a few slivers throughout the body, the chocolate never challenges for dominance.As a result, Seduction avoids the artificial chocolate and cocoa powder flavors that sink many beers touting chocolate's inclusion.

The malt bill is long but interconnected (Pils, Caramel, Chocolate, Munich, Munich Caramel, Carapils). For bittering, Ommegang used just Perle hops. Liefmans Cuvee Brut Kriek gives the porter its cherry finish and complexity. Unless I've been staring at the sun too much, Seduction also sports a tiny bit of crimson in its frothy lace.The cherry flavor is mostly sublime. The blend kriek works as good if not better than fresh cherries.
At moments, Seduction's fruit profile reminds me of Boulevard's conservative use of cherries in its Bourbon Barrel Quad from 2009 -- they applied just enough fruit to influence the flavor. In Seduction, the blended fruit beer is slightly more assertive. At 6.8 percent ABV, itis eminently drinkable and approachable. I would take it over Chocolate Indulgence, where the stout thickness and chocolate character get overwhelming.

With the cherry and other flavors, I found myself wishing a finger or two of sour ale would emerge. I'll keep hoping. Judging Seduction on its own merits, it succeeds in bridging the North Sea, giving an English-style porter a plethora of Belgian turns.