A Bush for One Season: Scaldis Noel

Sampled Dec. 3, 2006 and Dec. 19, 2007
Head for the mountains, but only if the beer is from Belgium.
I'm doubling up this year, comparing my impressions of Bush Noel samples from last year and now. For the record, Belgian brewer Bush markets itself in the U.S. as Scaldis; since no one reading this will expect a review of the unrelated American swill, I'll keep its proper name.

Known as Belgium's strongest ale, the 12 percent ABV Bush comes in a Christmas variation - and Bush Noel isn't merely a clone loaded with cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg then slapped with a Christmas Ale label. Both carry the same alcohol content The late Michael Jackson classifies both as barleywines because of it). They part in their hues - the standard issue Bush is a blonde-orange ale while the Noel is red.

Both vintages kick off with mighty plum, raisin and date bouquet. According to the brewery Web site, it places hop flowers in the beer vats during the 4-6 week maturation period so an extravagant nose comes with the territory.

I am not sure to what degree Bush varies the Noel recipe each year. But in the 2007 version, a pepperiness from the alcohol content cuts a swatch through every facet of this beer. The fiery pepper uptick on the finish is starkly different from last year's model. While constantly present, it nestles up nicely against the nose's dark fruits and through the tones left by the caramel malt. Last year's finish didn't have that power, and the spices emerged slowly.

Both editions have a maltiness that surges late, a trait undoubtedly due to the caramel malt. In the 2007, the pepperiness elbows it to the background. This is a beast, a Christmas ale that won't hold back.

Drink it carefully - the magnum picture above rarely appears in the U.S., but the 8.8 ounce bottle sold in finer liquor stores throws enough punches to leave its drinker slightly dazed.

Bush Noel occupies the upper limits of where a Christmas ale can reach. Year after year, it's a mighty festive perch.
Rating: 8.5/10 (up from 7/10 in 2006)

Hoggin' it with Avery

For a style not far removed from paint thinner and industrial solvents in strength, a well-balanced can hit the same impressive notes as other high-alcohol beers.\

Never subtle, Avery Brewing Company's Hog Heaven (billed as a barleywine-style ale) attacks with a sharply sweet nose that the intense alcohol bouquet tempers. It's also rather flowery, and not dissimilar from an Imperial IPA in tone, although Hog Heaven's hops smooth out the everpresent malted barley. It's a beauty in a tulip glass, ruby-colored with enough burgundy highlights to be mistaken for true wine.

The malt produces flavors across a broad spectrum - a plug of tobacco, molasses, raisins and a citrus undercurrent not really attributable to the hops (I'm guessing - it isn't a typical high alcohol beer citrus flavor).

Unless you're a masochist, serve it slightly chilled; without a little fridge for this massive ale, it will steamroll any seasoned drinker, and make them wish for a glass of paint thinner instead. Not for everyone, Hog Heaven rewards those who stick with it.

Rating: 7/10