This due sat atop my sister's fridge for the past five months, so on my recent trip to Chicago, it was time to revive the beer-review machine with a Tripel and Quadruple.
Lunatique
Tripel Belgian Ale
De Proef Brouerij
8.5 percent ABV
750 mL corked bottle
Sampled: November 14, 2008
The name is inescapable. The beer attached is not far behind, even if it doesn’t come off as emblematic of its style.
Falling into the unofficial Devilish Brew class (aka beers modified on Duvel), Lunatique considers itself a Tripel. I disagree – it delicately straddles the line between
For my first beer in eight days, I see few better choices than a beer so aptly describing my own mental state?
Lunatique pours with a thick yet effervescent heads that quickly dissipates. The brunt orange body does not have the purer flavors seen in many Tripels. The orange is accompanied by a dry apricot. Beyond that, Lunatique mixes in a little miscellaneous citrus and graininess common in beers made with quality malts. One sip of Lunatique gives me visions of amber waves – in Belgium, of course.
The grains shine through more clearly than in many triples – this one veers closer to Saison thanks to its rustic character. It would land on the high end of Saison alcohol content, but a little low for most Belgian Tripels.
That’s fine by me – too often the alcohol in Tripels soars beyond . Lunatique is still a nightcap, but instead takes a mellow journey.
The alcohol content kicks up a peppery finish. This bottle sat for six months, so the contribution of age is unclear.
At least Lunatique is no Duvel clone; it follows its own crazy streak.
Rating: 8/10
Cuvee Mystique
Abt Style Belgian Ale
De Proef Brouerij
8.5 percent ABV
Sampled: Nov. 15, 2008
One good De Proef deserves a follow-up, one much darker than Lunatique but similar in alcohol strength.
The nose projects a strong chocolate-tinged molasses, more potent than usual for the style. The head quickly bubbles down to tan lace, but the effervescence lingers; that’ a major departure from thicker, port-like Quadruples.
From there, it develops a ripe dark fruit bouquet, with dates and figs most prominent. Those fruits tail off into a bitterness with a strangle sparkle embedded in it.
While lacking the complexity of many quadruples, Mystique possesses what most lack – drinkability. Even at 8.5 percent, it’s a smooth ride without the heaviness those big ales often present.
Mystique finishes dry, almost like a stout and without the creaminess of most quadruples. The finish casts a roasted patina on the entire package.
While not on par with St Bernardus Abt 12 or Chimay Grand Reserve, Mystique deviates enough from the Abt/Quadruple template to earn repeated visits.
Rating: 7/10
Showing posts with label belgian. Show all posts
Showing posts with label belgian. Show all posts
Friday, November 21, 2008
Thursday, December 20, 2007
A Bush for One Season: Scaldis Noel
Sampled Dec. 3, 2006 and Dec. 19, 2007
Head for the mountains, but only if the beer is from Belgium.
I'm doubling up this year, comparing my impressions of Bush Noel samples from last year and now. For the record, Belgian brewer Bush markets itself in the U.S. as Scaldis; since no one reading this will expect a review of the unrelated American swill, I'll keep its proper name.
Known as Belgium's strongest ale, the 12 percent ABV Bush comes in a Christmas variation - and Bush Noel isn't merely a clone loaded with cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg then slapped with a Christmas Ale label. Both carry the same alcohol content The late Michael Jackson classifies both as barleywines because of it). They part in their hues - the standard issue Bush is a blonde-orange ale while the Noel is red.
Both vintages kick off with mighty plum, raisin and date bouquet. According to the brewery Web site, it places hop flowers in the beer vats during the 4-6 week maturation period so an extravagant nose comes with the territory.
I am not sure to what degree Bush varies the Noel recipe each year. But in the 2007 version, a pepperiness from the alcohol content cuts a swatch through every facet of this beer. The fiery pepper uptick on the finish is starkly different from last year's model. While constantly present, it nestles up nicely against the nose's dark fruits and through the tones left by the caramel malt. Last year's finish didn't have that power, and the spices emerged slowly.
Both editions have a maltiness that surges late, a trait undoubtedly due to the caramel malt. In the 2007, the pepperiness elbows it to the background. This is a beast, a Christmas ale that won't hold back.
Drink it carefully - the magnum picture above rarely appears in the U.S., but the 8.8 ounce bottle sold in finer liquor stores throws enough punches to leave its drinker slightly dazed.
Bush Noel occupies the upper limits of where a Christmas ale can reach. Year after year, it's a mighty festive perch.
Rating: 8.5/10 (up from 7/10 in 2006)
Head for the mountains, but only if the beer is from Belgium.
I'm doubling up this year, comparing my impressions of Bush Noel samples from last year and now. For the record, Belgian brewer Bush markets itself in the U.S. as Scaldis; since no one reading this will expect a review of the unrelated American swill, I'll keep its proper name.
Known as Belgium's strongest ale, the 12 percent ABV Bush comes in a Christmas variation - and Bush Noel isn't merely a clone loaded with cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg then slapped with a Christmas Ale label. Both carry the same alcohol content The late Michael Jackson classifies both as barleywines because of it). They part in their hues - the standard issue Bush is a blonde-orange ale while the Noel is red.
Both vintages kick off with mighty plum, raisin and date bouquet. According to the brewery Web site, it places hop flowers in the beer vats during the 4-6 week maturation period so an extravagant nose comes with the territory.
I am not sure to what degree Bush varies the Noel recipe each year. But in the 2007 version, a pepperiness from the alcohol content cuts a swatch through every facet of this beer. The fiery pepper uptick on the finish is starkly different from last year's model. While constantly present, it nestles up nicely against the nose's dark fruits and through the tones left by the caramel malt. Last year's finish didn't have that power, and the spices emerged slowly.
Both editions have a maltiness that surges late, a trait undoubtedly due to the caramel malt. In the 2007, the pepperiness elbows it to the background. This is a beast, a Christmas ale that won't hold back.
Drink it carefully - the magnum picture above rarely appears in the U.S., but the 8.8 ounce bottle sold in finer liquor stores throws enough punches to leave its drinker slightly dazed.
Bush Noel occupies the upper limits of where a Christmas ale can reach. Year after year, it's a mighty festive perch.
Rating: 8.5/10 (up from 7/10 in 2006)
Tuesday, April 03, 2007
Moinette Belgian Ale
Brasserie DuPont, Tourpes, Belgium
Unfiltered and bottle conditioned
750 mL corked bottle
8.5 percent alcohol by volume
Bottled: 2/2006
Sampled: April 2, 2007
Coming from a brewery with DuPont's reputation, Moinette was an easy sell.
Whether its taste might actually depart from the popular Saison DuPont was the tough question.
From the onset, it treads its own path with fantastic results. Lacking the long-lasting head of the Saison, the Moinette's diminishes into a thin crown above the golden orange body almost immediately.
Beneath the subtly florid nose comes a body highly inflected with orange, herbal and citrus yet without the dry pepperiness of the sister ale. Moinette comes to a more nuanced, rounded finish, with a mild maltiness breaking through.
A sweetness curls in on the finishing bow; it's there, but never in plain view, and gone in an instant once discovered. You've got to hunt it down, exactly what complex ales such as Moinette the taste to do.
Thankfully forgoing the champagne-like bubbliness of the other DuPont, I consider this a superior ale, ideal for sipping on summer evening. Moinette's flourishes are mature (a year-old bottle might aid that cause) and don't punish the palette through the course of a 750 mL bottle.
Rating: 8.5/10
Unfiltered and bottle conditioned
750 mL corked bottle
8.5 percent alcohol by volume
Bottled: 2/2006
Sampled: April 2, 2007
Coming from a brewery with DuPont's reputation, Moinette was an easy sell.
Whether its taste might actually depart from the popular Saison DuPont was the tough question.
From the onset, it treads its own path with fantastic results. Lacking the long-lasting head of the Saison, the Moinette's diminishes into a thin crown above the golden orange body almost immediately.
Beneath the subtly florid nose comes a body highly inflected with orange, herbal and citrus yet without the dry pepperiness of the sister ale. Moinette comes to a more nuanced, rounded finish, with a mild maltiness breaking through.
A sweetness curls in on the finishing bow; it's there, but never in plain view, and gone in an instant once discovered. You've got to hunt it down, exactly what complex ales such as Moinette the taste to do.
Thankfully forgoing the champagne-like bubbliness of the other DuPont, I consider this a superior ale, ideal for sipping on summer evening. Moinette's flourishes are mature (a year-old bottle might aid that cause) and don't punish the palette through the course of a 750 mL bottle.
Rating: 8.5/10
Monday, March 12, 2007
It's Grand Cru time again
After another painful date with the Red Cross, I soothed my rage at the inept technician (this was the second-straight donation where she fiddled in my vein a little too long) with stroll through the aisles of Palmer's Beverage.
And another tradition has been upheld as a result.
With seasonal beers, they become common for rare beers like Gouden Carolus' Grand Cru of the Emperor. Gouden Carolus, or Carolus D'Or, is one of Belgium's oldest breweries, dating back to documents from 1369.
This strong and dark Belgian ale can be cellared for up to 10 years, and grows with age. It's dark fruit flavors and dryness hoist it up among Belgium's best - a bold accomplishment.
Last year I tasted the 2000 version, and have also sampled the 2004 and 2005 versions. There's subtle, tasty differences between them, and this time I plan to age one for years before touching it.
I first stumbled upon it at Sam's, the giant alcohol warehouse in Chicago, and let it sit for nearly a year before I gave into temptation. Later bottles fared less well in my beer closet (I'll post a review within a few months, once I've got a second bottle for the cellar).
Though the Grand Cru of the Emperor (brewed to honor the birthday of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who was raised Mechelen, where the beer is brewed) can sit for a decade before drinking, it doesn't last long on the shelves.
And another tradition has been upheld as a result.
With seasonal beers, they become common for rare beers like Gouden Carolus' Grand Cru of the Emperor. Gouden Carolus, or Carolus D'Or, is one of Belgium's oldest breweries, dating back to documents from 1369.
This strong and dark Belgian ale can be cellared for up to 10 years, and grows with age. It's dark fruit flavors and dryness hoist it up among Belgium's best - a bold accomplishment.
Last year I tasted the 2000 version, and have also sampled the 2004 and 2005 versions. There's subtle, tasty differences between them, and this time I plan to age one for years before touching it.
I first stumbled upon it at Sam's, the giant alcohol warehouse in Chicago, and let it sit for nearly a year before I gave into temptation. Later bottles fared less well in my beer closet (I'll post a review within a few months, once I've got a second bottle for the cellar).
Though the Grand Cru of the Emperor (brewed to honor the birthday of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V, who was raised Mechelen, where the beer is brewed) can sit for a decade before drinking, it doesn't last long on the shelves.
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